Sunday, September 20, 2015

Zipping through the Alsace

We started the morning with a drive up into the Vosges Mts. above Andlau. It was a windy and picturesque drive that eventually got us to the Nunnery at Mt. St. Odile, overlooking the Rhine Valley above Obernai. It was a little overcast and the views were a little limited, but this was Sunday and therefore our religious experience for the day. Apparently there were some movie stars here today. Our route down from St. Odile took us into Obernai, so we took a little excursion up to the war memorial with its nice overview of Obernai. From there we jumped on the A35 autoroute and went about 45 kilometres south to the Plus Beaux Village of Eguisheim. Since it was Sunday we expected these picturesque villages to be overrun with visitors and we were not disappointed. It was challenging to get pictures without hordes in the foreground. Having whined about that, I must say that a visit to Eguisheim, which is a little ways from other Alsace highlights, is always worth it. The general consensus was that we should next visit the ultimate tourist trap of the walled mediaeval village of Riquewihr. Before that, we stopped at a roadside cafe on the Route du Vin for a tarte flambe and glass of wine. Riquewihr does have some of the most spectacular half-timbered houses in the Alsace, overflowing with flowers. You might have noticed some flowers in my pictures. You need to visit this region at this time of the year to get the full impact of their horticultural prowess. Today is the first day since we arived in France that it hasn't rained and that allowed us a nice stroll down the main street of Riquewihr. Our visit was accompanied by a small mass of humanity, some of whom were female and in really tight pants - according to Claude. I should mention that among its picturesque attributes, Riquewihr is the centre of an exceptional wine region with many excellent vintners including Hugel and Dopff & Irion. To get home, we meandered north along the Route du Vin back to Andlau. At Ribeauville, we caught the chateau in some exceptional light. We also made a final stop at the Hotel Arnold in Itterswiller, forever photogenic. Now we faced the task of packing and preparing to depart for our next destination, Annecy. We did this accompanied by some fine Louis Sipp wines, which made the job much easier.

Saturday, September 19, 2015

A Culinary Day

WARNING! The content of this issue may contain graphic images and descriptions of food! Actually there is no "may" about it, but I will keep my food pics to a minimum. Today was our long awaited reservation for the Auberge de L'Ill in the tiny remote village of Illhausern. I'm embarrassed to say that this our (Dawn and I) sixth visit to this Michelin three star restaurant, considered one of France's best. Remember that three stars is as high as restaurants go, anywhere in the world, if they are rated by Michelin. To step back a moment, the day started off overcast again and probably threatening rain. We headed out for Illhausern at 10:30 via the Alsace Route du Vin, which in my mind is the prettiest wine road anywhere we've visited. Every village is a fairy tale treat with scenes like this. We also made a brief visit to Louis Sipp, our favourite Alsace vintner in Ribeauville. We had a comprehensive tasting with the wife of Louis Sipp's great grandson. We focused on Grand Crus, virtually unavailable in Canada and found that we liked the Kirchberg ones best. We walked away heavily laden with over two cases of wonder. Then we were off to lunch, a mere 15 minutes from Louis Sipp. The setting of this place is the first remarkable aspect of this restaurant. Set on the Ill River, it is the essence of eloquence. Lunch today was in the main dining room shown below. We all opted for the Menu at 129 Euros per person, a five course plus menu with many small treats before and after the meal. First course for Claude and I was foie gras while the girls had a unique lobster salad shown below. Then we all indulged in the salmon souffle, the dish for which the Auberge received their third star. I think the construction of this dish is a well kept secret. It was fabulous! For mains, Carole had veal, shown below, with a stuffed zucchini flower. Dawn had lamb loin chops while Claude and I had the "tout est bon dans le cochon" - all that is good about the pig, with four unique selections; blood sausage, a chop, cheek and a bacon like I've never had. After the cheese course, Claude, Dawn and I had a dessert consisting of various chocolate treats - shown below - while Carole had a melon and green lemon sorbet. We started lunch at 1:00 and walked away from the restaurant at 5:00 feeling that we may never eat again, not that the volume of food was overwhelming, but rather that the taste experience was one to be cherished and never forgotten. As a foot note, we had two bottles of wine with lunch, the first a Klipfel Grand cru Riesling for 60 euros and a Domaine des Senechaux Chateauneuf du Pape for 88 euros. Today is sure to be the culinary highlight of this trip!

Friday, September 18, 2015

A journey down memory lane in Germany

Claude and I met in 1978 when he joined the staff at Lahr Intermediate School in what was then West Germany. Despite the fact that they had a son and we were without children, we formed a bond that has lasted over the years and we've travelled with them on several occasions. This year when we knew we were starting off our travels in the Alsace and Claude and Carole had not returned to Lahr since they left in 1980, a trip into Germany became imperative. So we left Andlau this morning at around 10:00 and arrived in Lahr around 10:40. Our first stop was a 9 Romerstrasse, the site of the highrise apartment we lived in from 1977 to 1979. It hadn't changed at all. Next stop was downtown for a walk on the main walking street. Our memories of this street ended out being sketchy. It's been a while OK! The highlight on the street used to be the ruins of the final tower that made up the castle of Lahr from way back. This was called the Altes Rathaus - old city hall - and it was adorned with a stork's nest and a pretty fountain, not to mention a hangman's apparatus. It did look something like this. Now it is under restoration and looks like this. We're getting kind of used to scaffolding ruining the view in Europe. Anyway, the main street still has many pretty half-timbered buildings. As far as the other constants of our lives in Lahr were concerned, the Canadian Caserne which housed three schools including mine, the shopping store, gym and arena, nothing remains. It's now a new housing development, which beats the boarded up, graffiti ridden buildings left after the base closed in 1993. Our other favourite haunt, The Officer's Mess also looks abandoned. I'm including a couple of pics that my grand daughters might enjoy - a car advertising party planning and a store featuring Italian clothing. On the way out of Lahr, we also stopped at Carole and Claude's apartment which looked a little worse for the wear. The rain returned for a while as we crossed from Lahr's Schutter Valley to the Biberach Valley. It was lunch time so we decided to seek out another old haunt - a Gasthof in an obscure valley that used to serve fresh trout that you chose from a tank as you entered the restaurant. We found the Gasthof, but the tank of trout was gone, replaced by a beautifully restored interior. The good news was that not only was the Gasthof owned and operated by the same people as when we were in Lahr, but one of their highlight dishes continued to be trout. Claude and I started off with a snail soup - a Black Forest specialty - while the girls had a lovely gemischt salad - mixed salad. Everyone then enjoyed the trout with the exception of me, since there was sliced calves liver on the menu. We accompanied the meal with a delightful dry Durbach Riesling, still somewhat unique for good German wines that tend to be still too sweet for our palates. By the time we finished lunch the rain had departed. We then headed up the next valley towards Triberg, cuckoo clock capital of the world. We stopped at a place that Carole and Claude had visited on a recent Rhine cruise. Yup, the cruise ship was there again. Fortunately they were leaving and we got a nice pic with the largest cuckoo clock in the world. They had lots of novel Black Forest merchandise including a few steins. As the weather continued to clear, we were reminded how beautiful this part of the world is. When we got to Triberg we were a little disappointed that the shop of our favourite German wood carver and merchant of artisinal works, Bruno Roth, was gone. Quel dommage! We then drove up into the hills above Triberg and on toward Freiburg - a fabulous drive. We decided that since we were to take this return route that we would stop in Colmar France, a first for C&C. We had a delightful walk here and enjoyed the scenery. We returned to Andlau shortly before 8:00 and quickly got into the Cremant. Today was a blast - from the past!

Thursday, September 17, 2015

France 2015

We may be getting boring, but somehow it just doesn't feel right if we don't get back to France in the fall. And, there's nowhere in the world outside Canada that I feel more at home than in the Alsace. So, accompanied by friends Carole and Claude Zorzi, we flew from Toronto to Amsterdam after some time in the Air France/KLM lounge (free booze and food) on September 16 with KLM and then on to Strasbourg, capital of the Alsace with Air France's commuter line IHOP. We took off in the rain, travelled in the rain and landed in the pouring rain. We now know why this line is called Hop, because the plane pretty much lurched and hopped all the way to the Alsace. No serious losses of bodily fluids, but uncomfortable none the less. When we landed and collected luggage, our Renault car representative was waiting for us - no phone calls required - and before we knew it, we were loaded up and off to our apartment in Andlau. Slick! Our GPS acted as it should and found the first destination with no blips. We've got the same Renault Kangoo as last year, but this time in steel grey. The apartment we're in is part of a townhouse unit on the valley end of the town. We found it very clean and well ordered, but a little light on cooking essentials - actually no condiments at all. The rain continued as we unloaded in Andlau and we quickly got back in the car and went on a quest for groceries. We weren't sure where to go, but headed towards Obernai, remembering the grocery stores there from the past. We found a small Carrefour in Barr, a slight 10 minutes from Andlau and stocked up on the essentials, after a little drive along the Route du Vin to Obernai - as beautiful as always. By the time our shopping was complete and we were back in Andlau, we were all pretty much in the bag, having had minimal or no sleep since Canada. So a mandatory weak spell was instituted and as heads hit the pillows, the lights went out. We had agreed not to sleep past 6:00, but we all actually awoke earlier, showered and discovered, much to our delight, that the rain had departed and the sun had taken its place. Due to improved weather conditions, we took a walk about in Andlau and thoroughly enjoyed this small unspoiled village. As we walked, we checked out the restaurants and eventually settled on Relais de la Poste for dinner. This restaurant is adjacent to the famous drinking bear sculpture that has been a landmark in Andlau for years. We were attracted to the menu here that advertised wild boar. We soon discovered, however that they also had venison, disguised by typical French flowery language. We all shared both wild menus and shared a tart tatin as well, not the mention a couple of fabulous Alsace whites - a pinot blanc from Kreydenweiss in town and an amazing 2007 grand cru reisling from the Kastelberg hills bordering Andlau. This was 155 euro meal and a marvellous way to start the holiday. We walked back to our apartment enjoying the smell of wood fires and the sound of the surging stream running from the mountains through town. Day one done!