After a pleasantly strenuous day 1, we weren’t sure they could keep us busier the second day, but they did.
One of the biggest time consumers for anyone traveling in Beijing and I suspect this applies to the rest of China as well, is getting from point A to point B. The billion plus people in this country are on the move. The roads appear to be packed all day long. Visitors to Beijing during the 2008 Olympics did not experience reality, because all private car owners were only allowed to use their cars once during the 5-day workweek. We expected to see more bicycles on the road and although there are lots, the greater surprise is the large number of expensive cars, especially of the German variety.
The day began with a visit to a jade store. We discovered here that jade comes in all colours, but the deep green jade is actually most valuable, because that means it is old, as jade darkens with age. You could drop a bundle here, especially if you were looking for a large piece – everything from an eagle with a metre and a half wing span to a life size Chinese warrior to a two by three metre Chinese folding screen and of course lots of fine jewelry – all in various colours, but all solid jade.
From the jade store we were off for our “walk” on the Great Wall. I have to admit that I thought it was going to be a “walk”, but it ended up being an extremely taxing climb up steep grades with up to ½ metre steps. This was what I came to China for and even though it was a tough go and packed with tourists, it was a fabulous experience and did not disappoint. I also didn’t have a heart attack, which is a good thing.
From our location at the Juyongguan Pass – which was about 1 ½ hours north of Beijing - the vistas of the Wall both up the mountain and across the valley on the next mountain ridge were astounding. According to Dawn’s stepper, we climbed a mere 450 steps up the wall, but that got us past 3 towers and high enough to allow for commanding views. And, I might add, these steps were worth easily 5 of your everyday variety.
Once again the greatest impediment to travel on the Wall, other than the physical site itself, were the volumes of tourists – yes even at this time of year. In many spots the wall path is barely wide enough for people to pass going up and down and to climb up into the towers, the stairs are steep, non-railing, one way tunnels with steps of easily no less than 40 cm.
But the day was perfect, with bright sunshine – the only weather we’ve had so far – and in the mid teens temperature-wise, making a little bit of aerobic work bearable. It was an exhilarating experience and although I was snapping pictures like crazy, we also took the time to just look around and soak up the atmosphere. I wasn’t prepared for it to be quite this mountainous. There are sections of the wall that are intended for only the very fit and able, but after experiencing this section I can’t imagine how anything could be more strenuous. This section has had a re-surfacing, however, which most stretches of the over 6000 km long Wall haven’t, making the walk or climb at other stops along the Wall even more perilous, with crumbling, poorly mortared or missing stones.
From the Wall, we drove to a Cloisonne Factory nearby. Here they make all manner of copper glazed ornaments. The process is very labour intensive, so once again nothing was cheap. So far, the touristy things we’ve been led to are intended to drain one’s pocket book. We have not yet had an opportunity to find out what the real Chinese are paying for consumer products, but if they’re paying anywhere near the prices we’ve seen on things, then the cost of living here has gone through the roof. I’m beginning to suspect that they’re keeping us so busy, so we don’t find out how much they’re trying to rip us off at the tourist joints. Am I being cynical? We’ll see.
We had lunch in a huge cafeteria above the factory showroom and I thought it was the best food yet. There’s always enough food, but they make you eat off what we consider to be side or luncheon plates. Of course chopsticks are the expected cuisinary tool, but they drop forks nearby for the faint of heart. The food comes in bowls – family style – to the table’s turntable centre and even the serving from these bowls is expected to be done with chopsticks. If you can stand the pace, it certainly is a healthier way to eat – not much chance of gulping down the meal.
Next, we were off to the area of the tombs of 13 of China’s 16 Ming Emperors. We didn’t have time to visit the only tomb that’s actually been excavated, but we did have a pleasant uncrowded stroll through the entrance gardens. Only non-Chinese tourists were to be found here, since apparently most Chinese remain very superstitious and don’t want to hang out with the ghosts of ancient Emperors. The highlight of this park were the lines of assorted stone animals.
Then we drove back into Beijing to see a Chinese acrobatic show at the National Theatre. After you experience a show like this, there is no question why we can’t compete with these guys at the Olympics. We had everything from a contortionist, to plate twirlers, to a magician, to a round metal cage of about 6 metres in diameter, with at one point, 5 motorcycles zooming around inside it, to just – just? – acrobatics. What a highly entertaining show!
Dinner tonight was at a huge 24-hour multifloored place favoured by the Chinese. The cuisine was more Cantonese than the Mandarin we’ve been fed so far, but I’d have to give lunch better marks.
You’d think the day might be complete, but NO. To round off the already jamb-packed schedule, a stroll through the Olympic Park was in order. The Water Cube (the aquatic venue), The Bird’snest (the 100 000 seat stadium), and the multi-lit Media Centre were the highlight of this walk. The buildings all certainly have a special magic at night, with the Media Centre in particular changing colour every 5 seconds.
What a remarkably interesting day!
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