Final Weekend in the Algarve

Saturday & Sunday March 29 & 30, 2008

Well, all good things must come to an end. We must consider ourselves fortunate to have escaped the Canadian winter – at least this year’s winter – for a brief respite. Right now as I pen this on our last full day, we feel that 3 weeks would have been more appropriate.
We always want what we don’t have, right?
Anyway, we’ve decided to hang about our apartment this weekend to soak up as much sun and local ambiance as possible. We did make a return visit to the gypsy market in Loule yesterday. We drove this time and it only took ½ hour verses 1½ hours on the bus. I have to say that bus trips do have their place and our excursion to Seville, Tangiers and Gibraltar demonstrated that, but I’d still rather do my own driving.


The market in Loule was even bigger than last weekend due I guess in part, to the fabulous weather with blue skies and temps hitting 25°. Both gypsy & farmer’s market were full to brimming with tourists. We had a couple of acquisition objectives that we quickly fulfilled and escaped back to Portimao. The afternoon afforded sun time and time to catch up on this blog.

For the evening, we went to Alvor for dinner to a restaurant recommended by our last tour guide Luis. Our Omega 3 is really up on this trip, with all the fish and seafood we’ve had. Last night we finally had sea bream, considered one of the finest fish in Portugal. The better fish are sold by weight, which we painfully discovered in France after ordering two fish that were 8 euros per 100 grams and we ended up with 1600 grams. Anyway, we had an English-speaking waiter last night, who gave us a fish lesson and told us what size fish would feed the four of us. Then it was grilled on charcoal BBQ’s at the front of the restaurant. We started with an octopus bean salad and followed with grilled prawns for the boys and mussels for Dawn. Then came the silver bream and a small snapper since the bream we chose only fed 3 people. We accompanied this with a nice Duoro white. This was amazing fish and we were all pleased with our choice – another fabulous meal!


Sunday meant packing for home. The clocks finally went ahead in Portugal last night, so that means tomorrow’s 5:30 a.m. departure for the airport in Faro will feel really early. Our car has to be back for 6:30 and our flight is 9:20.
Time for some retrospective! Would we come to Portugal again? Definitely and for longer! Would we stay in Portimao at the Jardim do Vau again? Definitely! It was centrally located for touring the Algarve and it’s location right on the beach it not duplicated very often in affordable accommodations. The amenities here were good and good dining and shopping were near by. It was also an easily accessible facility and we discovered that many Algarve rentals are, at best, obscure. Travelers with children, young or old, might be better off at the beach next to us, Praia de Rocha or in Albufeira, both happening places. It’s fairly quiet here.
So, another excellent adventure has wrapped up and it’s back to reality and apparently Canadian winter. Time to start planning the next trip!

Gibraltar, Great Britain

Friday March 28, 2008


We’ve been waiting 30 years to see Gibraltar since we couldn’t visit the rock on our last visit to Spain due a closed border as a result of Spanish/British tension, so today was a real highlight. It’s only 6 square kilometers of inhospitable rock, but a very interesting place. Of course the strategic location overlooking the straits where the Atlantic and Mediterranean meet, are the reason for the importance of this location and its greatest function up to the present, has been a military one. Even though a British protectorate, 90% of the people living and working here are Spanish, so the language here is either Spanglish or Gibrish – take your choice. They deslinate water for fresh water.

To get into Gibraltar, one has to cross the airfield – a most unusual feeling. Once in the city, we boarded smaller buses that could navigate the narrow, steep streets. They took us to a lookout over the harbour, where it was clear that ship traffic has not diminished – especially container ships.

Next was the St. Michael Caves one of the many natural caves in the rock. Combine this with the kilometers of massive tunnels built with the help of the Royal Canadian Engineers, make this a honeycomb of a rock.

On our way down from the caves, we stopped to visit the barbary apes. Nobody is quite sure about the total number of apes, but there are a handful of very social ones, eagerly awaiting the next wave of tourist buses. They provided some interesting photo ops.

Released from the formal tour, we cruised the main street finding few bargains in a place that is supposed to be duty free. We had lunch in a café on the main square – fish & chips of course and after lunch, Dawn & Bill set out to see if they could find a friend from the 70’s who moved back to Gibraltar in the 80’s. The chances of finding Ubi Malin were slim, since her name didn’t appear in the phone book, but when we asked about her in one shop, they thought she might live near the Red House on Main Street. So off we trudged and continued asking about her in shops. Just about to give up, we found a Rhodes-Malin name on a mail box, rang it and low and behold, Ubi stuck her head out of the third story window. At this point we had only a ½ hour to visit before getting back to our bus, but the re-married and re-divorced Ubi, showed us her place and we caught up a bit before she had to go back to work.

Our return trip to Portugal took 7 hours, which was long enough, but all agreed that the trip had been most enjoyable and we were glad we hadn’t missed it.

Tangiers, Morocco

Thursday March 27, 2008


We were blessed once more, with dazzling blue skies and temps around 20˚. Our drive to catch the ferry from Tarifa to Tangiers was brief and the boat trip aboard the high speed cat was only an hour to cover the 8 kilometres. We met up with another local guide and did a quick bus trip overview of the city which included a stop at a camel – actually dromedary – depot where the tourists could have pics taken of themselves atop the beasts. This was not a highlight with Dawn, who’d had her fill of camels in Egypt years ago.


Then it was off to the Kasba for a walk. To be a Kasba, or protected walled city, there were five essential things required – a Mosque, schools, bakery, Turkish bath and fountain. The fountain is a necessary spot since this is the only appropriate meeting place for young members of the opposite sex. An obligatory stop on the walk, was at the snake charmer – more like snake handler since no charming was done once the cobras were released from their box.

As we walked the narrow winding paths, the numbers and aggressiveness of street vendors increased. Your best bartering skills were required to get the best possible price, mostly for things you didn’t even want. We did go into a nice bazaar with high end rugs and leather and silver products and left some money behind for a leather jacket for Bill.


Our lunch today was in a Moroccan restaurant with quite enjoyable courses of soup, kebab, couscous, mint tea and baklava. We also had a very decent Moroccan red wine - OK for we nonMuslims. Our last visit in the Kasba was a spice store, where we were presented spices that would solve all of the world’s problems – at least that was the spiel.

From this point to the walls of the Kasba, the vendors got even more plentiful and we were glad we were in a tour that kept the pace going and allowed us to shake off at least some of the rascals, only to be greeted by more. And needless to say, they all had pretty much the same product – little wooden camel effigies, fezes, bracelets and tee shirts.

Back in Algeciras, we had an opportunity to wander on our own - unharrassed through the heart of the shopping area, which for a port city was pretty nice. Today ended with another buffet and bridge.

Seville, Spain

Wednesday March 26, 2008

Early on Wednesday morning, we headed out on a bus excursion with 48 other Canadians. Our first destination on this trip was Seville. The Spanish border is about an hour from Portimao and then an hour or so to Seville. We first saw many of the world expo sites from both the 1929 and 1998 fairs, including previous pavilions, now remarkable feats of architecture, like the pavilion of Spain from the 1929 fair (below). In both Portugal and Spain we’ve marveled at the extent that ceramics are used in exterior decoration


Two major locations were toured in Seville- the Santa Cruz Cathedral and the former Jewish ghetto. The Jewish quarter had narrow serpentine streets in which one could easily get lost. The Cathedral ranks as the world’s largest cathedral in overall interior area. It has numerous chapels that alone would put many North American churches to shame. The decoration in Santa Cruz, is totally over the top with tons of gold and silver glittering up the place.


The tower of Santa Cruz was formerly a mosque, which, when Christianity claimed a foothold in this area, was added onto on the top. In a muslim city, no building can be higher than the mosque, so due to the earlier muslim origins, the Giraldi (tower) is most prominent. Many famous people are intered in the cathedral, including Christopher Columbus, who sailed in 1492 not far from Seville and who came to the cathedral before he sailed to find India to pray. So much for that prayer!

Leaving Seville, we headed south towards Algeciras, through rolling hilled cattle country and more specifically bull fighting bulls. In both Spain and Portugal, killing the bull is against the law, but because the bull is so badly beat up and stabbed during the fight, the bulls have to be killed – humanely of course – after the fight. As we got closer to Algeciras, we got our first sights of Gibraltar, called the sleeping lady. You can see why when you see the following pictures.
We checked into the Almar Hotel, right on the esplanade in Algeciras that afforded nice views through the container port cranes, of Gibraltar. It was a fine hotel, with an extensive if somewhat questionable buffet for dinner.

Silves & Alte

Monday March 24, 2008

Da da da da da da today is my birthday!
Da da da da da da happy birthday to me!

This being away on my birthday is getting to be a habit – a good one. It was an absolutely spectacular day again today, with the temperature crawling up a little more. We normally eat in for breakfast, but today we went down to La Jacaranda for an English breakfast with fresh squeezed orange juice. The citrus harvest is just beginning here and everywhere there are signs with fresh squeezed OJ for sale. Following breakfast we headed out to two picturesque towns inland – Silves and Alte.

Silves is most noteworthy for its red sandstone castle dominating the skyline at the top of the town. At the present, the interior courtyard of the castle is a work in progress as a very expensive remodeling is taking place. You could, however, walk around the perimeter of the castle on the walls, which afforded great views in all directions.

Following our castle walk, we found a great picnic spot in town and soaked up the sun. For some reason, it’s difficult to beat a picnic in Europe.
Our next destination was Alte. This is a small town with winding streets and unique white houses. It reminded me a little of a small Greek village.

Below the main square, the river issues from the rocks at a place called Fonte Grande. This would be another great picnic spot if we hadn’t already had lunch. We did, however, rest a bit here for coffee and wine.

Back at Jardim do Vau, Dawn & Bill went for a walk along the cliffs in the other direction than our last walk. This direction has good paths but no fencing, so the unfettered beach and ocean views are ever more breathtaking. We try to imagine these beaches in the summer and are glad we’re here now, when at least there is some personal space.

For dinner this evening, Jim & Marjolein took us out for my birthday. What a treat! We ate for the first time at the restaurant in our complex and it ended up being the best meal we’ve had in Portugal, not that any have been bad. We are very impressed with the wonderful amenities of Jardim do Vau and the proximity.
I’m writing this on Tuesday the 25th. Today we plan a relaxing day in and around the Jardim do Vau. The biggest plan for the day is walking on the beach. So, because we’re heading out on an excursion to Seville, Tangiers and Gibraltar tomorrow, this will the last post until Saturday the 29th. See you then!

Festa das Tochas Floridas, Sao Bras de Alportel

Easter Sunday March 23, 2008

This morning we woke up to amazing blue skies, so I took a panorama from our apartment balcony. Not too shabby!

Then after a great Easter morning breakfast, we headed out. We passed a great view of Portimao.

We had a very unique experience today, one that will be best told in pictures – so I’m posting lots of them. We visited the inland town of Sao Bras de Alportel, about 45 minutes from us and just north of the airport in Faro. Every Easter Sunday they have a festival with a procession of flower torches through the flower-covered streets. I think I’ve seen pictures of this before, but you really had to be there to appreciate it.

They lined the streets with rows of flower decorations, with garnishes of rosemary and cedar. Somebody had gone to a lot of time and trouble to lay out these flowers.


The flowers were generally spring varieties like calla lilies, irises and birds of paradise. They were also many types of flowers we couldn’t recognize. Many but not all of the bouquets had candles at the top – I guess they burn them in the evening, because although we only stayed for the parade, the festival lasts all day.


The principle torches were carried exclusively by the men, but later in the procession, we found women bearing the cross – interesting - and children carrying small bouquets. We wondered who actually constructed the torches, which would be judged later in the day, since many of the men carrying them were of the young studly type.


This procession actually did include one band, but since it began from the church, the priests led with the torch bearers and the band followed. Like any European festival, this one had its share of tents set up selling those great deep-fried beignets – kinda like beaver tails – and some interesting cakes with anise and full hard boiled eggs. Of course you have to try these things.


We got back to the apartment shortly after noon and had a nice balcony lunch, to be followed by soaking up the sun time. The air was still cool but the sun was hot. What a great combination! Happy Easter!

Lisbon & Loule

Good Friday March 21 & Saturday March 22, 2008

Good Friday started off being a lot more promising weather-wise, with brilliant blue skies and moderating temperatures. We boarded the tour bus for Lisbon at the ungodly hour of 5:30 and five hours later, we arrive in Lisbon. This was a much longer trip than we had been led to believe, due to numerous hotel pickups on the way. The trip north took us through savanna-like terrain, with lots of umbrella pines and cork oaks stripped up to the first major branches. It takes a cork tree 27 years before it can produce bark and then it is only harvested every 9 years, but we learned that Portugal produces 30% of the world’s cork, so they’ve got a lot of cork oaks.


At Lisbon the terrain got hilly and in fact Lisbon was built on 9 hills, just like Rome. We entered Lisbon across a Golden Gate type bridge called the Bridge of the 25th of April and our first stop was at a very unique fortification on the Tagus River called the tower of Belem. Because it was Good Friday, it was pretty crazy with tourists, especially Spaniards.

We visited a large church & monastery and then toured the heart of the old city. Since most of the city was destroyed by the earthquake of 1755, a lot of the Moorish influence was lost, but there were still remnants of the ancient city found throughout the downtown. We walked about some of the town’s more picturesque squares and then we took a tram to the top of one of the hills for some great views and a visit to another old church called simply Se. Metropolitan Lisbon is only 2+ million people, but that apparently makes up 20% of Portugal’s population.

After another 5+ hours to get home we found this to a very long day, but were glad that we got to Lisbon.

On Saturday morning we were on the tour bus again but only for 1 ½ hours this time, as we headed off to the inland town of Loule that had a market including a gypsy market on Saturdays. This former Moorish town was quite interesting and both markets allowed us ample opportunity to stock up.


When we could finally carry no more, we returned to Portimao where we had lunch and then got in the car and of to Continente to stock up the larder. Our little fridge now looks just like the one at home – packed. The weather today was mainly sunny but still at little cool, but they are promising better for the next few days. But it’s better than Canada, right?