The Luberon September 21, 2008

After a wonderful first night in the Luberon, I headed up to Saignon to Chez Christine, a little café/boulangerie to post my last edition of the blog and pick up some croissants for breakfast. The quiet, little village was basking in the early morning light. I discovered quickly that the hub of activity in this village is Chez Christine because clearly they have everything required to get the day going, including wi-fi.

We then headed into Apt to meet Gary & Betty. I’d tried to call Gary on my cell phone without success to arrange a meeting, but as it turned out, we came upon them walking on the street and off we went for our whirlwind tour of the Luberon. The furthest and first destination was Ilse sur la Sorgue for its Sunday market. More wall-to-wall people! I’m just about marketed out. It was interesting for Gary and Betty though and we stayed and had lunch in an outdoor café along the Sorgue River.

After lunch, we were off to Gordes – spectacular as always. This hilltop village always looks so surreal as you approach it from below, but it is definitely one of those places that are most interesting from a distance and are rather ordinary once you get into them.

We then took a quick zip down the valley to Abbaye de Senaque, a still operating monastery that operates on a code of silence and a very austere existence. There has been some controversy regarding the removal of the lavender fields immediately in front of the Abbaye that have been, for years, a very important photographic moment for people visiting. Since we’re never here when the lavender actually blooms, it’s not big deal for us.

We then drove through the winding hills of the Luberon to Roussillon, which would have to be my favourite village in this area. As well as Gordes, it is designated a Plus Beaux Villages de France and with all its ochre beauty, it does not disappoint. There is a photo op at every corner.


One more village was on our itinerary and that was Bonnieux, made famous by Peter Mayle in his A Year in Provence. It is yet another perched village that was packed with people on the agreeable weather we had this Sunday.

Betty and Gary picked up pizza for dinner and we had a great last night together, before they head north toward Paris tomorrow. It was super to reconnect with Betty after all these years and it was equally super to get to know Gary a little better. After one more rowdy card game, we’re thinking things may be a little dull and if not that, then at least a lot slower tomorrow.