We started off the day with a visit to Bagnols so I could post the last edition of my blog and we needed a few provisions. Unfortunately (?!?), Intermarche also had a wine fair, when they bring in the really good stuff. Even though I didn’t really need any more wine, there were a few bottles difficult to resist – so I didn’t. Quel domage!
Instead of going directly back to the Mas, we took a circular route so that we would go through the pretty village of Sabran. This village was once the principal seat of the area and had many nearby villages under its rule. Today it’s a perched, residential village in very nicely restored condition, with no commercial services. I’m thinking a lot of these places are summer and retirement destinations.
The rest of the day was spent in and about the mas. We’ve really started to treasure the opportunities we have to just hang out here. It has now become clear that we will never return to this location, since the PEI lady who bought it plans to move here in November. Again, quel domage! I set about to do my best photographic representation of the mas and as a result got the best panorama of the mas front I’ve ever taken.
We headed out for a vineyard walk in the late afternoon. We very quickly got into sampling the grapes to see how close they were to being picked. Although we had no idea what variety of grapes we were sampling, we thought they all pretty much tasted sweet and ready for harvesting. Since there’s no activity in the vineyards we view from the mas, I guess we’re not very good testers. The concerns for this crop are that the grape skins will split with any more rain, thus inducing rot. I would therefore assume that there will be a very tight timeline for getting in the harvest. Meanwhile the farmers are simply biding their time, doing menial jobs like hand trimming any unruly vines that aren’t bearing fruit and cutting grass to make it easier for the pickers to enter and exit the vineyards. It must be extremely nerve-wracking waiting for just the right moment!
On the way back up the hill to the mas, we visited our newly stabled neighbour just below the mas. He came quickly when he heard us, but unfortunately we disappointed him, since we had no food for him. Whoever installed him here does visit a couple of times a day and we have seen him being ridden, so I guess he’s doing OK.
Next morning the Mistral continued, so clearly we’re in for a long bout of it. However, the skies were pristine and the temperature is improving.
Vendage is now into full swing. How do I know? Waking at first light as I often do, the harvesters were roaring in the distance. Not many grapes are hand picked in this particular area – it’s all about what is cost effective. It’s also about finding pickers. So the fields are full of these massive grape harvesting machines that beat the life out of the vines, but get the grapes picked cheaply.
First destination this Tuesday was Vaison la Romaine for market. It was as crazy as last week. You could hardly walk through the streets. We picked up a few items, but as this was only stop one on the way to the summit of Mt. Ventoux, we also grabbed a pizza for lunch and a nice bottle of Sablet, from Lou Canestou (Patricia Wells’ favourite haunt).
For those who haven’t seen Mt. Ventoux before, you’d swear it was snow covered. It is not snow, but rather pulverized stone and it resembles what I would imagine the moon looks like, except there are various towers at the summit. The drive to the top is slightly harrowing due to road side drop offs to oblivion with no guardrails, but it’s also full of cyclists. Most of them are not young either! I guess they eventually make it to the top, but it must take them hours.
We’ve only made this trip once before and then it was so windy and cold that Dawn & Jackie didn’t even get out of the car. This mount IS called Ventoux (windy), after all. This time, however, the temperature might have been a few degrees lower than at the base, but the wind wasn’t blowing much at all, at least compared to the onslaught of the Mistral these past few days. The view was spectacular!
The route upon which we descended took us to the south side of the mountain. Not far from the top, our progress was blocked by a huge herd of sheep that were on our side of the road, on the other side of the road and walking right down the centre of the road. No shepherd was in sight, but a couple of large sheep dogs did show up to hasten the laggards. The flock had large green and red painted brands on their backs, so
I guess no one was worried about sheep rustlers.
Our route back to our side of the Rhone, took us through Beaumes de Venise. Although we didn’t want to buy or taste, we did take the amazing drives up to both the Durban and Coyeux domains. The views on the way are breathtaking and low and behold there were once again people picking in the vineyards below the Dentelles – very picturesque!
Our final destination was Bagnols for butane to power stove and BBQ. Then after a seven hour outing we made it back to the mas, just in time for cocktail hour. What a wonderful day! Tomorrow will be a slower day with only Bagnols market and blog posting on the bill. Here in Provence, we think this too will be a wonderful day!
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