Fort Buoux Thursday September 25

Last year when we traveled to Cathar country in the foothills of the Pyrenees, we trekked up to many a castle, built to protect the Cathars from religious persecution from the Catholic Church. These walks were almost religious experiences and quite arduous at times. Today we had a similar experience when we hiked up to Fort Buoux, an ancient site about 10 kilometres away from our mas.


We are getting really good at starting our days at a leisurely pace and didn’t get away until 10:30. We did a little shopping in Apt before tackling the very narrow and windy drive up to Fort Buoux.
Like most of these sites, you can drive only so far and then you must walk the remaining mostly vertical distance. Fortunately the day was sunny but coolish and the path was reasonable. We had no idea what to expect and after finding the first remnants of ruins, thought mistakenly that there wasn’t much to this fort.


We very quickly discovered that the site, which was inhabited since the earliest antiquity and then became a refuge about a thousand years ago for Protestant Waldensians and then a fort from the 1400’s to the 1800’s, went on and on and eventually stretched over ½ kilometre.

We passed cave houses, walled homes, many cisterns, a church and grain storage silos carved in the rock. There were of course also many fortified ramparts and towers and the castle keep was at the very top of the fort, able to overlook the entire habitation.
The views from the top were staggering and unfortunately very difficult to capture on film. As I take these pictures now, I first stand and soak up the view first hand, knowing full well that the photos just won’t do it justice. Dawn did really well with the heights, but did finally reach a drawbridge path, at which point her journey upward was finished.


We actually only saw one other couple in our whole exploration of Fort Buoux, which is a bonus for traveling at this time of year. On the way back to the mas we picked up another already seasoned and ready for the oven duck breast, similar to the one we had last night for dinner. It seems we can’t get too much duck. The French do a wonderful job of making it easy to eat interesting and delicious food. Our day concluded like yesterday with more cards and popcorn with Sheila and Cole. We’ve now branched out to euchre and so far the boys are getting the cards.

Mid-week in the Luberon – September 23-25

Tuesday was company day again for us. After a morning picking up of lunch provisions in Apt, we had Peter & Margaret for lunch. This is not an area they know well, so they were quite happy to do a bit of exploring.
So, after lunch, we headed up to Saignon past the Abbaye d’Eusebe, which is now a reception hall.

Saignon – pronounced sang-known – still wins for perched villages in this area. Both interior and exterior views of the village are remarkable. We took the walk up the Rocher again and the light was totally different from the evening we were last here.



From Saignon, we took the canyon drive to Lourmarin. Talk about switch-backs! This is another Plus Beaux Villages site and although it is very different from Gordes and Roussillon, it does have a unique charm. Shirley Plasky would call this place shi-shi. It


is loaded with shops and artists that cater to the very wealthy. Most of the works of art I actually found a little bizarre, but I guess they wouldn’t be in business if there wasn’t a market for it.


When we returned from Lourmarin, we had the dessert we’d skipped at lunch with a nice 2001 red Chateauneuf – interesting combo. Peter and Margaret then headed back to Cairanne for their hour and a half drive, most impressed with this area of the Luberon. This is the end of our company.

New things to discover today (Wednesday)! Since we’ve now been to all the places that we’ve seen before this trip, it was time to branch out. So, we headed to other side of the Luberon valley and into the Vaucluse hills and the town of St. Saturnin-les-Apt. We knew nothing about this town, but it ended up being a real treat.

We drove up through its narrow streets and at one point passed through a stone arched gate that was almost pull-in-the-mirrors narrow. We then took a walk up to the chapel at the top of town above extensive castle ruins. The views here were once again quite

remarkable. Of course, in most parts of France, here included, everything looks very ancient, but in fact, there has been serious restoration work done everywhere so that most ruins are actually fairly newly restored ruins. Are you losing me here? This definitely makes it a lot safer for everybody – tourists and locals alike– but most importantly, it’s really good for tourism. For the camera bug, this is heaven!

We headed back to the mas for lunch and after some wine, a slow afternoon. In fact the rest of the day was pretty slow. We are really trying to suck up the local ambience. After dinner, we did get together with Sheila & Cole for more cards and popcorn, but that was about it for the day.

First Day of Autumn, September 22, 2008

Well it had to happen! Summer has come to a close. We’re just hoping that our summer-like weather will not abandon us immediately.
The Mas de Genets has two separate rental accommodations, both on the bottom level of the mas with walkouts to a gravel terrace and views of the valley. Ours is two levels, but the one next door is on one level. The couple staying there right now is a younger couple, Sheila and Cole, from South Carolina. Sheila works with the daughter of Stephen Parker, the owner of the mas. We had drinks with them last night while Betty and Gary were still here and gave them a few touring tips.

We started the day with a trip to Chez Christine for petit dejeuner – croissants & raison buns with hot chocolate and coffee- magnifique! – while I posted the last edition of my blog. Then, we took a tour of the environs, which are as it turns out are all perched villages – Saignon being the premier one, with many others to follow.


We followed our great small scale map to the various perched villages in the area and ended up back at the mas, at which point I took a walk in the vineyard and tried to capture the uniqueness of this site.


Following a slow down at lunch, we drove to Menerbes, the famous Peter Mayle town and had a walk about. It is an outstanding walking village, with, once again, a photo op at each corner.



We drove back to Saignon via Lacoste, with its Marquis de Sade castle and then the Roman bridge, Pont Julien. This bridge, although not one-two with Pont du Gard is an interesting example of Roman building in the area.


Back at the mas, we had drinks with the patrons of the mas and then dinner, followed by another rousing game of Bite Me, this time with our American neighbours, Sheila and Cole. Sorry! They lost! C’est domage! Tomorrow, we’re expecting a visit from Peter & Margaret. And perhaps more Bite Me!

The Luberon September 21, 2008

After a wonderful first night in the Luberon, I headed up to Saignon to Chez Christine, a little café/boulangerie to post my last edition of the blog and pick up some croissants for breakfast. The quiet, little village was basking in the early morning light. I discovered quickly that the hub of activity in this village is Chez Christine because clearly they have everything required to get the day going, including wi-fi.

We then headed into Apt to meet Gary & Betty. I’d tried to call Gary on my cell phone without success to arrange a meeting, but as it turned out, we came upon them walking on the street and off we went for our whirlwind tour of the Luberon. The furthest and first destination was Ilse sur la Sorgue for its Sunday market. More wall-to-wall people! I’m just about marketed out. It was interesting for Gary and Betty though and we stayed and had lunch in an outdoor café along the Sorgue River.

After lunch, we were off to Gordes – spectacular as always. This hilltop village always looks so surreal as you approach it from below, but it is definitely one of those places that are most interesting from a distance and are rather ordinary once you get into them.

We then took a quick zip down the valley to Abbaye de Senaque, a still operating monastery that operates on a code of silence and a very austere existence. There has been some controversy regarding the removal of the lavender fields immediately in front of the Abbaye that have been, for years, a very important photographic moment for people visiting. Since we’re never here when the lavender actually blooms, it’s not big deal for us.

We then drove through the winding hills of the Luberon to Roussillon, which would have to be my favourite village in this area. As well as Gordes, it is designated a Plus Beaux Villages de France and with all its ochre beauty, it does not disappoint. There is a photo op at every corner.


One more village was on our itinerary and that was Bonnieux, made famous by Peter Mayle in his A Year in Provence. It is yet another perched village that was packed with people on the agreeable weather we had this Sunday.

Betty and Gary picked up pizza for dinner and we had a great last night together, before they head north toward Paris tomorrow. It was super to reconnect with Betty after all these years and it was equally super to get to know Gary a little better. After one more rowdy card game, we’re thinking things may be a little dull and if not that, then at least a lot slower tomorrow.

Mas de Viales Sept. 17 to departure on Sept. 20

On Wednesday we posted the last version of the blog and went on to market. Still no tomato lady! Que’est-ce que c’est? We’re guessing they have two markets on the same day and she is no longer doing Bagnols. The alternatives are too painful to ponder. We picked up numerous dinner items for the next couple of days, including some very nice brioches at the Charcuterie and then went clothes shopping at Intermarche’s clothing store – Veti.


For the entire stay at the mas, we have used the outdoor shower. There many things about the mas we will miss, but this particular feature will become a highlight of our stays here.

We were back at the mas by noon hour and between Bocelli playing on the stereo (computer), the amazing vineyard views and the distant hum of the harvesters, we had a great restful afternoon. This is what we came to France for. Ambience!
Thursday was another great day spent at the mas while we awaited the arrival of friends Betty Roe and Gary Swernik. It was a real treat to have them come to visit us since we hadn’t seen these former Canadian, now LA California, friends for many years. They had flown direct from LA to Zurich the day before and with some difficulty finding us - surprise, surprise! - they finally got to us around dinner time a little weary but in good spirits. It was wonderful to catch up!

Friday we played tour guides and did a little circuit of the area starting with the small market at St. Quentin de la Potterie. We then made our way to Uzes, for a short walking tour of the city on a non-market day. By lunch we made our way to Pont du Gard and had a picnic under the olive trees before walking to the site. It was a gorgeous day, which made the visit even more enjoyable. Then it was off to do some wine tasting, with the first stop in Tavel followed by a walk about Chateauneuf du Pape. Having worn out our guests, we returned to the mas and walked down through the vineyards to Chez ma Mere for dinner.

Saturday meant packing up and leaving the mas for the last time. Although sad, we also felt ready to move on and make new lodging discoveries. With little Cleo packed to the gills, we lead the way through Avignon to our next stop in the Luberon. We arrived at Apt just as its huge Saturday market was winding down. We’d only ever driven through Apt in the past and never stopped, so we quite enjoyed the opportunity to explore the

town a bit while trying to find Betty and Gary accommodations. They found a B&B close to the tourist office and we wound our way up the hill towards Saignon, an incredibly beautiful perched village overlooking Apt. Our spot at the mas de Genets, was actually about half way up the hill. Our new place was on two levels with bed and bath upstairs and kitchen/living space downstairs. In this renovated mas our apartment was originally the tractor and tool sheds. The large windows afforded a wonderful view of the valley.


Betty & Gary joined us for dinner and before that, Betty drove us up to Saignon for a look see. Visibility was outstanding and we walked up to the rock outcropping topping the village for some memorable views. After our little walking tour, we returned to the mas for dinner and a rousing card game of Bite Me until the wee hours.

Mas de Viales from September 15, 2008

The Mistral is still with us. This wind typically blows for 3 days or multiples thereof. Fortunately, the skies are clear, even if the temperatures feel like Canada.
We started off the day with a visit to Bagnols so I could post the last edition of my blog and we needed a few provisions. Unfortunately (?!?), Intermarche also had a wine fair, when they bring in the really good stuff. Even though I didn’t really need any more wine, there were a few bottles difficult to resist – so I didn’t. Quel domage!
Instead of going directly back to the Mas, we took a circular route so that we would go through the pretty village of Sabran. This village was once the principal seat of the area and had many nearby villages under its rule. Today it’s a perched, residential village in very nicely restored condition, with no commercial services. I’m thinking a lot of these places are summer and retirement destinations.



The rest of the day was spent in and about the mas. We’ve really started to treasure the opportunities we have to just hang out here. It has now become clear that we will never return to this location, since the PEI lady who bought it plans to move here in November. Again, quel domage! I set about to do my best photographic representation of the mas and as a result got the best panorama of the mas front I’ve ever taken.


We headed out for a vineyard walk in the late afternoon. We very quickly got into sampling the grapes to see how close they were to being picked. Although we had no idea what variety of grapes we were sampling, we thought they all pretty much tasted sweet and ready for harvesting. Since there’s no activity in the vineyards we view from the mas, I guess we’re not very good testers. The concerns for this crop are that the grape skins will split with any more rain, thus inducing rot. I would therefore assume that there will be a very tight timeline for getting in the harvest. Meanwhile the farmers are simply biding their time, doing menial jobs like hand trimming any unruly vines that aren’t bearing fruit and cutting grass to make it easier for the pickers to enter and exit the vineyards. It must be extremely nerve-wracking waiting for just the right moment!


On the way back up the hill to the mas, we visited our newly stabled neighbour just below the mas. He came quickly when he heard us, but unfortunately we disappointed him, since we had no food for him. Whoever installed him here does visit a couple of times a day and we have seen him being ridden, so I guess he’s doing OK.

Next morning the Mistral continued, so clearly we’re in for a long bout of it. However, the skies were pristine and the temperature is improving.
Vendage is now into full swing. How do I know? Waking at first light as I often do, the harvesters were roaring in the distance. Not many grapes are hand picked in this particular area – it’s all about what is cost effective. It’s also about finding pickers. So the fields are full of these massive grape harvesting machines that beat the life out of the vines, but get the grapes picked cheaply.
First destination this Tuesday was Vaison la Romaine for market. It was as crazy as last week. You could hardly walk through the streets. We picked up a few items, but as this was only stop one on the way to the summit of Mt. Ventoux, we also grabbed a pizza for lunch and a nice bottle of Sablet, from Lou Canestou (Patricia Wells’ favourite haunt).

For those who haven’t seen Mt. Ventoux before, you’d swear it was snow covered. It is not snow, but rather pulverized stone and it resembles what I would imagine the moon looks like, except there are various towers at the summit. The drive to the top is slightly harrowing due to road side drop offs to oblivion with no guardrails, but it’s also full of cyclists. Most of them are not young either! I guess they eventually make it to the top, but it must take them hours.

We’ve only made this trip once before and then it was so windy and cold that Dawn & Jackie didn’t even get out of the car. This mount IS called Ventoux (windy), after all. This time, however, the temperature might have been a few degrees lower than at the base, but the wind wasn’t blowing much at all, at least compared to the onslaught of the Mistral these past few days. The view was spectacular!

The route upon which we descended took us to the south side of the mountain. Not far from the top, our progress was blocked by a huge herd of sheep that were on our side of the road, on the other side of the road and walking right down the centre of the road. No shepherd was in sight, but a couple of large sheep dogs did show up to hasten the laggards. The flock had large green and red painted brands on their backs, so
I guess no one was worried about sheep rustlers.

Our route back to our side of the Rhone, took us through Beaumes de Venise. Although we didn’t want to buy or taste, we did take the amazing drives up to both the Durban and Coyeux domains. The views on the way are breathtaking and low and behold there were once again people picking in the vineyards below the Dentelles – very picturesque!


Our final destination was Bagnols for butane to power stove and BBQ. Then after a seven hour outing we made it back to the mas, just in time for cocktail hour. What a wonderful day! Tomorrow will be a slower day with only Bagnols market and blog posting on the bill. Here in Provence, we think this too will be a wonderful day!