Wednesday, October 7, 2015

Over the Hills

Thanks to the myriad of farmer's one lane and yet two way, paved roads honeycombing this part of France and thanks also to GPS that recognizes these roads, there are many ways to go from point A to point B. The farmer's roads may not be quick, but they sure can be interesting. This morning we thought we'd try to go across country in a more or less straight line to get to the small Wednesday market in Malaucene. That meant finding a route over the Dentelles de Montmirail - not exactly flat land. After studying the detailed map of this area that I brought from Canada, I determined that this might be possible. Dawn was OK with the "might" and off we went. We headed up into the hills at Seguret and started off as if we were going to Walter's winery, Domaine de Mourchon. Instead of turning into his driveway, however, we continued down the road with hiker's signs suggesting that we would end up in Vaison la Romaine. This was fine, but we were hoping to get to Crestet, an impressive perched village. We finally did find Crestet, as the photo above suggests, but not until our extremely picturesque route dumped us out at Vaison la Romaine as promised. The great thing about being here in the fall, is that as the leaves change colour you can finally tell one grape type from another - at least you could if you had a hot clue what red leaves meant. Malaucene and Bedoin are the two staging towns at the foot of Mt. Ventoux for the fanatics who must make the climb by bicycle. As you approach these towns there are already many bikers on the roads, some circling Ventoux, but many also getting warmed up to do the climb. The market in Malaucene was indeed small, but adequate. Bike shops renting high end bikes, sponsored by the likes of Tour de France hero Chris Froome, dot the main street For lunch, we thought we'd try St. Hubert in Entrechaux, which we have tried in the past but have always found them on holiday. Today was no exception. Next choice, Puymeras and the Girocedre. Here, we were third time lucky and on Oct. 7 it was still nice enough to eat in their beautifully treed garden. We both chose the Market menu with two courses for 17E. Today it was a charcuterie selection with salad following by pork roast with fried potatoes and zucchini mousse. We kept the two family cats happy by sneaking them morsels. One of them was ready to come home with us - not likely. The wind was kicking up today, howling through the vineyards and I'm sure the locals will be grumbling about the Mistral, but the up side is beautiful clear blue skies. We enjoyed those back at Chez Pigeon!

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